We took 3 days off and visited the villages of Santu Lussurgiu, Bosa and Alghero. Explored.
This village is located about 40 minutes north of us, somewhat hidden in the mountains. On the south-eastern slope of Montiferru, at an altitude of 500 m, nestled in a spectacle of volcanic village and protected by lush forests, a precious treasure, countless water sources, is guarded. Santu Lussurgiu is a medieval village with 2400 inhabitants halfway between Oristano and Bosa, whose name goes back to the soldier and saint Lussorio, who preached here before his martyrdom (303 A.D.). Between the 19th and 20th centuries, this place was a famous cultural centre, summer residence of nobles and writers, as well as an antifeudal stronghold. Today, the accommodation and gastronomy structures are the destination of many tourists, to which the old town, culture and hikes are particularly attractive. The route runs away from the (once) seven water springs (with low mineral content) of San Leonardo di Siete Fuentes, a “ghost village” from the 12th century, but which has been “living” since the 16th century. Nestled in the forest of San Leonardo, only the Romanesque church can be seen today. The villa flourished until the conquest by the Aragons and gradually disintegrated. Conversely, Santu Lussurgiu, which had developed around the church of Santa Croce, which was originally dedicated to Saint Lussorio (1185), grew. While the beautiful church of Santa Maria degli Angeli was built in 1473 by the observants in late Gothic style together with a monastery, the former cultural “drive”. In the church a wooden madonna with child (from the 16th century) is kept.
The area was already inhabited in the Neolithic period, which is occupied by the Domus de Janas of Matziscula and Mandra ‘e caddos. The village of Monte Agudu, some giant tombs and numerous nuraghes, some of which are very well preserved, go back to the OnlyAghic era. The remains of the Villae di Santa Ittoria, Camputzola and Banzos indicate the passage of the Romans.
The Ristorante Antica Dimora del Gruccioneis recommended for culinary delights (as well as for overnight stays). The courtyard in the old walls is beautifully decorated, the kitchen works only with local products and the wine list contains many discoveries. Just visiting this restaurant is worth a trip!
The small town is located directly on the sea, beautifully nestled between the surrounding mountains.
The river Temo has dug its estuary here and flows into the sea a few kilometers below Bosa. Bosa is the only town in Sardinia built directly on a river.
A lot of wine is grown on the slopes of the surrounding area, and there is also a lot of agriculture due to the abundance of water here.
Already at the time of the Nuragher the area was inhabited. Later Phoenicians and Romans settled here. The present city only began to grow when the Genoese fortress was built.
This 12th-century fortress still stands on the bosa mountain as a ruin.
The picturesque historical centre of Bosa is unique and relatively quiet compared to other cities such as Alghero or Sassari.
The shady and often very narrow streets invite you to take a walk even in the hot season.
The most important street of the old town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which still has a historic granite pavement. On the sides are tall old palazzi with partly magnificent facades, on which iron balconies hang.
At the end of the Corso is the Cattedrale dell’Immacolata, built in the 16th century and reconstructed in the 19th century. This mixes baroque and classicist styles. Inside it is decorated with magnificent ceiling paintings, altars and carvings.
The Temo determines the image at the edge of the centro storico. You will not find such a waterfront promenade in Sardinia a second time.
A palm tree avenue runs along the river, the blue fishing boats are moored on the shore. If the cars weren’t, you’d feel set back a few hundred years.
The Temo is the only river on the island that can be navigated at least a few kilometres long.
The old stone bridge “Ponte Vecchio” spans the river. It was for a long time the only connection between the two shores.
Excursion boats offer tours below the bridge along the old town and up the Temo to the church of San Pietro.
On the other bank, directly opposite the palm promenade, are still the buildings of an old tannery.
Due to the abundant water available all year round, Bosa developed into the centre of Sardinian leather and fur processing.
The skins and leather used to be an important export item.
During the Second World War there was a last upswing. The Bosa tanneries were among the few that met the quality requirements of the military.
From the 1960s onwards, traditional tanning could no longer keep pace with industrialization and competition from the Far East. The last local company had to close.
A few years ago, the remaining buildings began to be restored in order to save them from the threat of decay. Today they house restaurants, a museum and residential buildings.
Alghero is located on the northwest coast of Sardinia on a small headland and is surrounded by water on three sides. An international airport connects the town year-round with many cities all over Europe.
Like many places in Sardinia, Alghero has an eventful and eventful history. In the 11th century, the Genoese Doria liberated the city from the hands of Saracen pirates. The city was protected by strong fortifications, as Pisa would also have liked to invade the village. Even today, the foundations of the old city walls can be visited. In the 14th century, the Spanish made the city the main base of the House of Aragon in Sardinia. For 200 years, the Spaniards were able to hold on to the fortifications through constant expansion and improvements. It was not until 1720 that Alghero fell to Savoy. During the Second World War, the port city was bombed by the Allies because of its favourable location, and the damage is still visible today. The Spanish character of the city has held up to this day. Since most of the inhabitants are of Catalan descent, paella is at the top of the menu and some street names are signposted in bilingual.
Climate and leisure in Alghero
Sardinia is a popular destination for sailors, windsurfers and kitesurfers, as different winds blow all year round. For tourists who want to see something of the island, the months from April to June as well as September and October are recommended. During this time it is usually warm during the day, but not too hot and the island shows all its colors in full splendour. Wealthy Italians like to hibernate in their holiday home in Alghero because of the mild climate. As a holidaymaker you will find comfortable holiday homes for a beach holiday with the family. The most traditional seaside resort in Sardinia is also known for its coral reserves far beyond the island and is a very lively city at any time of the year. In January and February, for .B competitions in underwater fishing end with a sea urchin kirmes. At the Easter ceremonies there are medieval processions to admire. In summer there are many music concerts and festivities and there are numerous boat, art and craft exhibitions. There are also many live events on New Year’s Eve.
Travel guide for Sardinia / Italy:
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What to see in Alghero
The old town of Alghero, which is situated on a rocky outcrop, is surrounded by thick walls and watchtowers worth seeing. The city centre is not large. However, it offers many attractions. Most roads within the city walls are closed to traffic. The often narrow, shady streets are ideal for a leisurely walk. No other place in Sardinia has so many cafes, restaurants, hotels, souvenir and coral jewelry shops. In summer, life in the old town pulsates between the beautiful palaces, the impressive churches and the lively Piazzen. In the centre itself, a visit to some beautiful churches and palaces is recommended. If you want to swim in the area, the fine sandy white beach in the north of Alghero, which reaches as far as Fertilia, is particularly popular. South of the city stretches an impressive rocky coast towards Bosa one of the most beautiful panoramic routes of Sardinia. Here you will always find small bathing possibilities. We recommend a trip to the Neptune Grotto near Capo Caccia.
Gastronomy and entertainment
In Alghero, artichokes, tomatoes, suckling pig (“porceddu”) and goat’s cheese find adequate space in the local recipes, all of which are very easy to prepare. Residents love dishes with lobster. Every year between May and June there is a gastronomic event entitled “L’Aragosta nella cucina algherese” (“Lobster in the kitchen of Alghero”). At this event, various restaurants transform the city into a huge seafood restaurant and offer menus based on cordery dishes at reasonable prices. The selection of traditional Sardinian desserts ranges from “gueffos, from almond dough to the so-called “seadas”, which are dough bags filled with pecorino (sheep’s cheese), fried in oil, served hot and watered with honey. For the local wines, the fragrant Vermentino di Gallura is recommended as a white wine, and a cannonau for red wines. You can end the evening in the Maracaibo cocktail bar in Via Lido.
After 3 eventful and culinaryly high days we drive home happy again with the certainty that we did not visit these 3 villages the last time.